#288 Ralph Lauren

0:00 Ralph Lauren has built the most successful apparel company in the United States. His favorite declaration about himself is What you see is what you get. When he describes his work. He insists.

0:11 That it does not constitute Trendy fashion. And that his customers care more about well made clothes Than the latest party dresses from Europe. He takes such distinctions as

0:21 Seriously. Once, when I lumped him together with a handful of other designers during casual conversation, he snapped. Don't put me with those designers. My business is not compared to to anybody else's.

0:36 This is an unauthorized biography. I knew before starting this project That Ralph Lorra was guarded about his personal life. I knew that he rarely appeared. At society dinners.

0:46 This reserve is due to shyness. Not modesty. In practice Ralph Lauren is a tough Intensely ambitious businessman.

0:56 Has never received the recognition it deserves. He has always possessed Immense self confidence. It is central to his character.

1:06 An asset as valuable as a sense of color Fabric and style. That explains Why Ralph has always been willing to break the rules and to do things his own way. At different times in his career, he has refused orders.

1:21 From top retailers. For years he griped that the retailers he did do business with didn't display his clothes with enough elegance. Finally he decided he was gonna do it himself. Today Ralph Lauren

1:34 Lives in a fifth Avenue duplex. owns a twelve thousand acre ranch in Colorado. A home on Long Island. A villa in Jamaica. And a two hundred acre estate.

1:44 In Westchester County, New York. as well as a fleet of antique cars. He jets from home to home. In his own Gulf Stream. Ralph Loren is one of the richest self made men in the United States.

1:57 This is the story of how Ralph Lauren built his business. And why it succeeded. It is also the story. of what that success has done to him.

2:07 That is an excerpt from the book that I'm gonna talk to you about today, which is Ralph Lauren, The Man Behind the Mystique, and it's written by Jeffrey A Trashenburg. For a few years now I've been looking for a good biography on Ralph Lor and ever since I saw this documentary. I probably watched I don't know, maybe two years ago. It's called Very Ralph and it's on HBO.

2:23 And in less than two hours the documentary gives you a fantastic overview of the very unique life and career of Ralph Lauren, but one thing that was in that documentary stuck out to me. And it made me want to like learn more about His approach to work. And how he thought about building his business. And it's a fact that

2:38 Ralph Lorenzo started out selling ties. And just like if you listen to episode one ninety nine where I cover the biography of Coco Schnell. Her empire that still makes billions and billions of dollars in profit to this day. Started out with hats.

2:53 And what Coco and Ralph have in common is they were insistent. To do things their way. And so the part of the documentary that stuck out to me was the fact that Ralph didn't grow up with a lot of money. He's a young man in his twenties. He's trying to get started as a designer.

3:06 He is selling ties, he goes to Bloomingdales. They say yes, we love what you're doing. Do me a favor, Ralph. Take off your brand name. Put on our house brand and you got a deal.

3:17 And Ralph immediately packs up his ties. And walks out the door. It's one thing to turn down an opportunity when you're already rich. It is something completely different. He needed that. That was a life changing order for him. At the time he's a young man. He's got no money. He just got married. In fact, in the documentary the the wife talks about

3:35 The fact that they had nothing. They slept on a mattress on the floor and the L train ran above their head. And yet he still refused to deviate from what he wanted to do. He's like, I'm not building up your brand. I'm not building up your company. I'm building up mine. And so ever since I saw that, I was like, Okay, I'm definitely reading a biography. I'm definitely making a podcast on him. I have to thank my friend Matt Russell.

3:53 Matt's the CEO of Colossus, which is the podcast network I'm on. He's the one that actually told me about this biography. This is a very old book. This bo this book It's almost forty years old. It was published in nineteen eighty eight. When the book ends, the company is about twenty years old and it's doing about two billion dollars a year in sales. The documentary comes out thirty years later. Ralph's in his late seventies and he's still Working on his business.

4:16 Okay, so I want to jump into the book. I'm gonna start out of order. Most of what I found really interesting about the book. was Ralph's early life. And then how A lot of my highlights have to do with the fact that his company almost went bankrupt in the nineteen seventies.

4:30 And I personally found him fighting his way through that. Very inspiring and I th also that there was a lot of good ideas. Something that was always shocking to me was how rich fashion designers seem to be. And so something I had read about previously was the fact that a lot of them got so rich Because of licensing.

4:46 And so there's just one paragraph I'm gonna read to you. And I'm gonna talk tell you how David Geffen actually saved Calvin Klein from bankruptcy. So it says few outsiders understood fulfill the licensing business had become. Ralph would have been a successful designer in his own right. However, he would have never qualified as one of the world's richest men without licensees.

5:04 Willing to pay him. five to seven percent of sales. So that switch from manufacturer to licensor. Uh the switch two licensing. Is actually what helped him save the company from bankruptcy.

5:16 In the nineteen seventies, the next decade and a half is where he built all that wealth, where the book opens up saying, You know, this guy's got like five estates everywhere, he's got his own private plane. He's got a fleet of antique cars. And so as you can imagine, when you're reading biographies, you come across all kinds of really surprising and interesting things. Like two years ago, I'm reading this fantastic biography called The Operator. It is a biography of David Geffen. It is episode one eleven, if you haven't listened to it yet. It is a book I'm going to reread in the future because David Geffen's career is very unique. But I wanna read this

5:44 paragraph I came across that just shocked me. And this is gonna mirror what's happening with Ralph Lawrence almost like him and Calvin Klein went through the exact same thing. So Calvin Klein and David Geffen wind up becoming close friends, although their approach to diff to business was vastly differ different. Geffen is an animal, he's a very formidable person.

6:02 And so I'm gonna read this too. His privately held fashion empire was on the brink of bankruptcy. Geffen surmised that the company should be transformed from a manufacturing firm To a design, marketing, and licensing company. This is exactly what happened to Ralph Lauren too. You guys stink at manufacturing, he said. You need to get out of that business. Instead, Geffen continued, the company needed to focus on what it really knew.

6:20 How to design and market the Calvin Klein brand name. Calvin, you should only be focusing on the aesthetics, Geffen said. You should just be designing the clothes and overseeing the marketing and advertising. Geffen reprimanded Klein and Schwartz I think this is uh clients like one of his executives might be a C of O. Uh, gem recommended climate insurance for excess for excesses they could not afford.

6:39 Among other things, he told them to sell their company Jet what cost them two point five million a year to maintain. He also told Klein to fire his chief financial officer. And helped him hire. A type uh top executive. uh from an accounting firm that Geffen himself used. Here was the fixer in action. David Geffen was now involved in kind of problem solving that energized him more than anything else.

6:59 So remember that part for later when you and I go over When Ralph Lauren made the switch from a manufacturing company to a licensing company. So scorpions early life. Ralph was a son of immigrants and had to grow up wearing hand me downs.

7:11 He grew up in a small two bedroom apartment with a tiny bathroom, so he shared a room With his two brothers. He was born so Ralph Lauren is obviously not his real name. Ralph and you'll see that it was smart to change the name. 'Cause he was born

7:23 Ralph Lifschitz. His dad plays a large role in his life. In fact, his dad's someone that changed the name uh from lifchitz to lorne. Uh Frank his name's Frank. Frank Lifschi was a house painter and a muralist. He saw himself not as a craftsman. But as an artist.

7:38 He dreamed of becoming another Picasso. His feet were on the ground, but he wanted to soar into the heavens. And so unfortunately he wasn't able to soar into the heavens. 'Cause he had the realities of his life, he said he had to take care of his wife and his young kids. I think him and his wife emigrated

7:52 into the United States when from Russia when they were like sixteen or seventeen years old. So it says feet were on the ground and he wanted to soar into heaven. So the realities of his life, of raising a family Uh, he was an immigrant. And this was the depression. As a result, he was glued to these realities, but he wanted to soar.

8:07 In that way, he was altogether different. He had dreams. His son is going to realize the father's dream. This is what you and I talk about almost every week, I feel. The story of the father is embedded in the son. This is why I'm reading this to you. He was glued to the realities, but he wanted to soar and that way he was altogether different. He had dreams. Frank was also the one who changed his name to Lauren. He thought if he were an artist called Frank Lauren, it might help him.

8:27 If Ralph has these qualities now, meaning an eye for taste, an I uh an eye for color. Frank is where they came from. Frank took his work very seriously. As you'll see, Ralph is going to take his work extremely seriously. You don't work until you're eighty. You know, well, decades decades after you're already unbelievably wealthy unless you take it extremely seriously.

8:46 Ralph's parents raised four children on a salary of fifty to seventy five dollars a week. There wasn't much leftover for clothes, for restaurants or for nights out with the kids. Neither was there money to move into a larger apartment. And so there's several notes that I took while watching the documentary for the second time as research for this podcast. That's gonna jump out to you. Uh some of them are said by Ralph, some of them are said by people that knew him when he was younger. He use this the fact that he knew he grew up in a bad situation he's like I'm going to be rich

9:12 Wait until you see What he leaves. as one word, he describes his future w in one word in his high school yearbook. And the book starts off talking about his greatest asset. One of his greatest assets is the fact that he had excessive amounts of self confidence. It's pre that's brought up in the documentary again. It says he's very competitive. He's very confident in what he wanted to do. This is him they're describing him when he's a kid.

9:31 He had a belief and a passion in what he wanted to do. Some would say that he is cocky. He wanted to be bigger and better than where he came from. His wife talked about the fact that they live in this crappy apartment, they had nothing. That they had a vision board. that they would actually put up on the wall and they'd take out pictures of like English estates and wonderful cars and all this stuff.

9:48 Stuff that was an idea in Ralph's mind that he made real. And then something's also apparent if you watch the doc documentary. Or if you read this book, it's in there as well. He's extremely obsessed and dedicated to his job. One would think it's somebody as famous as him. in in the the chosen profession that oh he's an extrovert. He's very introverted.

10:07 He talks about the fact that he essentially had work and family. He says we were not very social because I never had the time. I wanted to be with my family. Talks about when his kids were little. He's like when I'm not working. I spent a lot of time with my my kids when they were really small. But he also had a form of resourcefulness, even when he didn't have money. So he's he's wearing like hand me downs, he's shopping like thrift stores. But he was able to to think to to

10:28 combine things that other people donated or gave away and he would combine them into unique looks that no one else Had. And so it says what m differ even when he was a kid was that he would show up dressed in outrageous outfits. He'd wear these like preppy crew neck sweaters in bright colours. But on him they look great.

10:44 The ones he wore when he was a kid are the same crew neck sweaters that he sells today. Ralph and his high school friends wanted a better life. The nineteen fifty seven graduating class listed their aspirations in their yearbook. One wanted to be a pharmacist, another wanted to be a scientist, a third wanted to be a physician.

10:59 Ralph didn't put a profession beneath his picture. Instead he chose the single word. That best summed up everything he wanted in life. The word was millionaire. So main thesis of this podcast is that everybody learns from somebody. They all study the people that came before them, they take ideas from them.

11:16 They take these ideas, they combine them with ideas of their own and they create something new. Ralph Lauren is no different than this. A lot of the his early designs he said he was I just took them straight out of movies I love from the nineteen thirties and nineteen forties. And he's like, I saw them in the movies, but I didn't see it in the stores. And so I wanted them, so I just had to make them for myself. And so the book goes into one of his main influences was the fact that he starts discovering these really fine men's stores.

11:40 He's in his early twenties at the time. And so Brooke Brothers is gonna be a huge influence on him. So says he discovered fine men's stores like Burke Brothers and Paul Stewart. The stores sold such clothes. uh that peddled the image of old England. They were selling the world of gentlemanly clubs, good service, fine breeding.

11:57 And the customers who shopped at Brook Brothers shared and enjoyed the fantasy. So that idea he repeats over and over again. He's like, I do not sell clothes. I sell a lifestyle. I sell an image. I sell an idea. In fact, the way he speaks about this. I immediately thought of what I read from the Coco Chanel d biography on episode one eighty nine. Coco Chanel, I'm gonna read this quote from you. I'm gonna read this quote to you, rather.

12:17 She said this in nineteen thirty five. That is before Ralph Warren was born, and it's the same exact idea. And she's talking about the fact that she puts on a story for her customers. When my customers come to me, they like to cross the threshold of some magic place. They feel a satisfaction that is perhaps a trace vulgar. Бо да дойдем, де я привлечь карс. Who are incorporated into our legend.

12:39 For them this is a far greater pleasure than ordering another suit. Ralph was gonna use that idea. to build his business, Brooke Brothers is using a variation of that idea. in y peddling old English lifestyle, gentlemenly clubs, good service, fine breeding. The problem was

12:55 Ralph couldn't find quite find the clothes he wanted. So it says as classy's and As classy as these clothes were, he decided that they weren't quite quite right. They needed more flair. They needed more tailing. Since Ralph didn't see what he wanted, he designed it himself. Ralph didn't fantasize about becoming a fashion designer, he became a desire. A designer to fulfill his fantasies.

13:14 And then he starts meeting other people in the stores, other people in the industry. And there's gonna be a quote that I have written on several pages throughout this book. It's one of my favorite things, I mean, Charlie Munger said a lot of things that I like, but one of my favorite things is that you need to really need to try to work in a field. In which you have an intense interest. He didn't say, Oh I feel that you're interested in or kinda interested. You said in intense interest.

13:32 Intense interest sounds a lot like this. Nobody was as interested in style as Ralph. He would talk about clothes the way others talked about plays and books. So he starts working at Brooks Brothers. Then he drops out of college. And this is an important decision because while working at Brook Brooks Brothers, it says

13:49 This is where Ralph would get his first lesson in how to sell to the upper middle class. Those were the lessons that college could never have taught him. So he switches to a job working for a manufacturer. As a salesman Of men.

14:01 Men's and women's gloves. And we're gonna see in a minute something that people said throughout his life. Ralph is just different. Everywhere he goes, I was like this guy is different. The job required patience and strong legs, it meant getting into the office early, learning which buyers were in town. And then hustling the rest of the day to make the sales.

14:16 What he lacked in experience he compensated it for in energy and enthusiasm. Back to Munger's idea, right? That's another example of Munger's idea. Work in an area where you have intense interest. He is enthusiastic about selling gloves. He is twenty two years old. And listen how he's talking. He's talking with his fellow The people he's working with. Ralph used to tell me about his his big dreams.

14:35 And how his traditional look was going to be big. He also tells the same person, he's like, Listen, you really don't understand what I'm talking about. This is something he repeats over and over again that no one really understood. The ideas that he had. So from that job he goes to another one. Now he's working for a Boston tie maker. That is important because like I said earlier, he gets his start manu making his own, designing his own ties.

14:55 And the owner of the business for some reason see something in Ralph. They're like, Oh, he's unusual. I like this guy. His name's Abe Rivets. Abe Rivets had noticed something about Ralph Lauren that he liked. Ralph was going to be somebody special, he told the other salesman. Nobody at the company ever believed him. In fact, everybody else at the other company thought Ralph was full of shit.

15:13 And part of that was because of the way he dressed. Here he was, twenty years younger than anybody else. in the company and he wore the damnest clothes to work. And this differentiation. I love I just read um I think it's episode two eighty two, maybe. When I read uh Jeff Bezos' shareholder letters for the third time, he said something in those uh that I absolutely loved. He said differentiation is survival.

15:32 Ralph was so differentiated that He got written up in trade papers before he was Ralph Lauren. So says people outside the office began to talk about Ralph and his clothes a reporter for the Daily News record, which is really important. Like Trade Magazine. Hunted Ralph down.

15:46 Uh in nineteen sixty four. This is like Four years before he starts his own company. And uh and wrote up a full page dried up in a newspaper about Ralph Lauren's wardrobe. And so his co workers like what the hell is going on here? The crew at Rivets, this is where he's selling ties.

16:01 was days since when did Ralph Loren give interviews? More to the point, who cared what Ralph Loren thought about clothes? Ralph was different. says Mel Kriedman. So this is the guy This is Abe Rivets. Abe owns the company. Abe is going to pass away in a few years, unfortunately. Abe believed in Ralph.

16:18 Mel takes over the company. Mel's his son in law. Mel does not believe in Ralph. He doesn't want to change anything. He's like, No, this isn't there's no design business and ties. You just sell ties like we've been selling forever. What is wrong with you, kid? Right? And Ralph's like, Oh, I ca I I have to leave here. I can't Like get my ideas out into the world. This isn't gonna work. And so uh it says Ralph was different, says Mel.

16:36 If everybody was clean shaven, Ralph wore a beard. When the industry was selling skinny ties, Ralph had to wear a wide one. And so unfortunately the founder of the company, the owner of the company dies, the one that was supporting him. It says Abe Rivets died on the same day that Ralph and Ricky Lorne married. So I think Ralph is around twenty four years old at this point. When Abe died, I went back to Mel and said No, I'd like to design the ties. And he said, There's no such thing as a designer in our business. Mel thought Ralph was an amateur.

17:01 What bothered Mel the most was that he thought Ralph spent too much time talking about clothes instead of selling ties. He was supposed to be a neck work salesman for us. But I found he was spending a lot of his time talking to tailors. Ralph could spend hours talking about the location and dimension of belt loops on trousers. Are the size of pocket flaps. Why the hell is the kid talking to somebody about belt loops? You know what popped to my mind when I got to that paragraph? One of my favorite quotes ever. It is a quote.

17:28 That I try to live up all the time. Mediocrity is always invisible until passion shows up. And exposes it. Mel is mediocre, he doesn't give a shit. About the business that he is in, he just inherited it from his father in law. Ralph is coming in with energy, enthusiasm, and

17:45 Passion and new ideas. And he's hitting a brick wall. This I think ties to what the author's point was in the introduction. You need this excessive, almost delusional levels. of self confidence'cause that's what the world is gonna throw up up throw up to you. Over and over and over again.

18:00 Brick wall after brick wall. And Ralph's like fine, put up a brick wall. I'll dig a hole under it. I can't dig a hole, I'll jump over the wall. If I can't jump over the wall, I'll knock it down with a sledgehammer. He is constantly pushing. This is one of the best ideas that Ralph that Ralph has is the fact that If you know what you want, you've got to try to move yourself in the position to do it.

18:19 And he had this like relentless, constant, but very calm pressure. And he does this over this is the first time we're gonna see how he gets what he wants, he just constantly just hits like I said, just Tapping at the wall over and over and over again until it falls. So says Ralph wanted to choose which colors we used. Ralph was so persistent.

18:34 That eventually Mel said enough. Do it. Leave me alone. Again, let's go back to the previous page. Mediocrity is always invisible until passion shows up and exposes it. Ralph is exposing Mel. This is what Ralph said.

18:47 The other guys in the company didn't understand what I did and they didn't know how to budge. I scared them. I color some ties. And they say, Why are you doing this? You're killing our image. Ralph didn't see it that way.

18:57 Ralph also became fascinated with wide ties. This is super important because this is gonna be his first product that he made makes for himself. He also became fascinated with wide ties. Uh, they were making ties like that in Europe. Ralph had seen them. And said, Let me do it, he pleaded. That was Mel's limit.

19:12 Ralph was over the top. Wide ties this is what Mel said, it's so it's actually kinda funny. Why ties looked absurd. A man might as well wear a bib to work. That's actually pretty funny. Frustrated and angry, Ralph began looking for a new job.

19:26 And really he decides to just create his own job. And so this is where he's gonna start his company. And really he he picked up he's a master salesman, by the way, and that's very one of the best skills you could have as an entrepreneur. Think about entrepreneurship is sales. I always think of what um The founder of Trader Joe's talked about this in his book beautifully.

19:42 Um it's actually episode one eighty eight, if you haven't listened to that podcast already. And I'd by the book, Becoming Trader Joe's absolutely fantastic. He writes the book, you know, I think he's like eighty something years old. Publishes the book and dies the next week. So he literally catalogs everything that he learned building up Trader Joe's over multiple decades. you know, puts it into the book for our benefit, for the benefit of future generations of entrepreneurs, and then, you know, sadly passes away. But he's talking about in the book is like listen, most of my career is just selling plans of actions.

20:07 You have to sell your customers, you have to sell your vendors, you have to sell your investors, uh, you have to sell your employees. And so he says one of the things that differentiated him, Trader Joe, and early in his career is the fact that he's just been aware from the very beginning. Of the need to sell everybody. And we see that with Ralph Lauren as well. Ralph was now searching for potential backers. Telling them he intended to make wide, elegant ties, reminiscent.

20:26 Reminiscent, excuse me. Of the nineteen forties. Why investors? Because Ralph didn't have any money to start his own company. His parents couldn't lend him any money and neither could his brothers. Ralph was a natural salesman.

20:36 Ralph sold himself. He sold his taste. His taste level and his and he sold his personal commitment. And here's the thing. If you currently have a job and you're telling other people about your desire to make a to to start your own company, to leave to start your own company. They're gonna tell you not to do it.

20:52 Why? Because they're not founders. They're not entrepreneurs. Only founders can understand founders. It is the weirdest job in the world. And we see that. So he's like working for Uh working with uh at a tie maker. And he's telling about this and the guy's like, his name's Blake. Uh, Blake thought Ralph was naive and perhaps deluding himself about his abilities. Look, Blake counseled, you've got a hell of a good job where you are. Stay here.

21:13 Ralph Lorne was not discouraged easily. And what's amazing is Ralph is going around giving away his ideas, telling people what he's going to do before he does this. Oh, for let me just read this quote. What he Ralph was talking about what really pushed him and got him through this time. Why I think delusional self confidence is so important. What I had was enthusiasm. I believed in what I was saying. So he's going around, he's saying, Hey, You guys can't just think, Okay, this is what the time market is. Like we can greatly expand it.

21:38 We can make more money by increasing the prices. He believed that he could actually expand the market. That you're not just like, I'm not jumping into the Thai business and maybe get five percent market share because the the the total amount of ties sold. is stagnant. He's like, No, I can increase it. Like if you make a more desirable product people will buy it. And then if it's more desirable and it's better designed, they'll pay more for it and therefore you will make more money.

21:58 And so Ralph is constantly trying to push up. Add in more of quality and value into the product. So he could push up the prices. That's another main theme throughout the book. He said, build value into the shirts and raise your prices. Give men more styling, not the same traditional looks year after year. Be aggressive.

22:14 shirt and suit maker, but he's also gonna apply these ideas to his own ties. Be aggressive. The customers would pay for the best. when they were given chance to buy it. I wanted to change the prices too. Ties were then inexpensive. They were three dollars or four dollars each. The ties I wanted to sell.

22:27 Started at seven fifty and I think they start I think when Bloomingdales does do the order later on. 'Cause you know, he first turns them down, he's like, Nope, I'm building my own brand. They come back around and I think the ad I think he sells them to him to him for like seven fifty. And they sell'em to the customers for fifteen dollars. Remember, he's just like

22:44 Uh the retail prices on these things were three to four bucks. Mine are fifteen dollars. So throughout Ralph's career, he goes to a bunch of different partners. Uh sometimes they're business partners That's why he buys out all his own partners, he wants to like run his own show. Then he has like a hell of a time finding the right like level of executives. He has to go through so many people. to the point where I had to start writing out the names. Like this is this is so much to keep track of.

23:06 So he's gonna get this started with a with a partner This guy's n last name is Brower. The name is not too important other than he's the one that helped Ralph get in business. And eventually he's gonna talk about why he let Ralph leave. And I thought his insight there was actually interesting. So we'll get to it in a minute.

23:22 So Ralph's gonna walk into Mills office like yo, I'm out of here. And Mel's like, Yes, great. I was happy because I was g I wasn't gonna have to fire him. So this is where he starts polo fashions. Eventually this is gonna turn into just a Ralph Lauren Corporation, I think is the the technical name now. And this is w I thought it was interesting how they got the name. So he's talking to his brother Jerry and he says Jerry suggested polo fashions.

23:42 Polo was a rich man's game and it conveyed money style And exclusivity, the same qualities Ralph wanted his ties to have. Ralph thought Polo was a terrific name. Now this is hilarious. Ralph is broke right now. He's got no money.

23:55 And that you have a broke guy. Starting an exclusive high priced brand. And so one of my favorite quotes that I've ever come across in any of the books, it comes from James Dyson's uh autobiography, the first one, the one I covered up on episode two hundred.

24:11 But he says J James is talking about his business philosophy that he had from day one is very similar to what we're gonna see with Ralph Lauren. He said different for the sake of it. In everything. Because it must be better from the moment the idea strikes. To the running of the business. Difference and retention of total control. That is the advice that Dyson has to you and I.

24:27 So we see this here. Uh more than the price was different. So this I already said he's charging fifteen dollars for ties at a time you can give for three bucks. Ralph made Hand

24:36 made prints in bright colours. He used wild Exotic fabrics. And this is why Ralph said he was in a hurry. If he used every day ordinary fabrics, nobody would have paid attention.

24:49 James Dyson had a very similar thought. He said, Like when you saw the Dyson vacuum cleaner in a store, You may not buy it. But you definitely notice it. You'd walk by And you see There's six different vacuum cleaners all next to each other.

25:00 One is not is unlike all the others. So maybe he's like, Hey, I'm not gonna pay four X the price or three X the price or whatever it was. But at least you paid attention and you were aware of its existence. And so I'm sure there's people that saw Ralph's ties and said, Hey, that guy's wearing a bib, and maybe they hated the way it looked, but they noticed it.

25:16 And so he starts out just selling to small but very high end stores. His goal is like w if I'm gonna do volume, I gotta get in like the Bloomingdales, the Macy's, the Sacks. He's not there yet. gonna get to the point where where it really jumped out to me where they have this meeting and he's just like, No, I'm not building up your brand. But Something that Ralph knew from the very

25:34 Beginning is the Nothing a draws a crowd like a crowd. That is a famous quote from P D Barnum. And so Ralph has a small brand at this time, but he's trying to figure out ways to make his small brand

25:45 appear much larger. He was also sh a showman and he understood that to build his business. He needed more exposure. So after trying he finally gets a meeting with the buyers at Bloomingdales. They like the ties, or okay, this is uh the story I talked about earlier.

25:58 Bloomingdales agreed to buy Ralph's ties. If Ralph would put a Bloomingdale's label on them. It was a generous offer. Selling to Bloomingdales would have given Ralph Lauren credibility.

26:09 It would have increased his sales at a time when he badly needed it. Ralph said no. So in addition to putting on the Bloomingdale's name. They also insisted that he narrow the ties. By an inch.

26:20 Ralph said no the way he saw it, if he narrowed his ties and took off his label, He wouldn't stand for anything. Ralph wanted to make money. But he wanted to do it his way. So I've come across an experience like this before.

26:32 A very something that was very similar to this is the founder of Sony, Akiya Marita wrote this fantastic book. The book is called Made in Japan. It's his autobiography. It's episode one oh two of Founders. If you haven't listened to it. A camarita is very important to study, people like Jeff Bezos and Steve Jobs. have talked openly about take about learning from ideas

26:51 a Keo used to build Sony and to build Amazon and Apple. And so in the early days of Sony, they had the same thing happen. They're trying to sell these like little radios. They have no money. No one knows who the hell Sony is. And they turn down an offer for a hundred thousand units. It said the people at Bolova.

27:07 Like the radio very much. And the purchasing officer said, We definitely want some of these. We'll take one hundred thousand units. One hundred thousand units. I was stunned. It was an incredible order. It was worth several times the total capital of our company. But then he told me there was one condition. We would have to put the Belova name on the radios. That stopped me. I had vowed.

27:28 that we would not be an original equipment maker for other companies. We wanted to make a name for our company. on the strength of our own products. We would not produce radios. Under another name. When I would not budge, he got short with me.

27:42 Our company name is a famous brand that it's taken over fifty years to establish, he said. Nobody has ever even heard of your brand name. Why do you not take advantage of ours? And then this is a crazy response. I understood what he was saying, but I had my own view. Fifty ago Your brand name.

27:57 must have been just as unknown as our name is today. I am here with a new product. And I am now taking the first step. For the next fifty years of my company. Fifty years from now, I promise you. That our name

28:10 Will be just as famous. as your company name is today. And so the note I left in that book the first time I read that's actually a good note. If you know why you're doing what you're doing, the hard decisions become easier. A Keo and Ralph knew why they were doing what they were doing.

28:27 So Ralph packs up his ties, has to find another way in. And this section is the power of the cold outreach. In Ralph's day, it's the cold phone call. Today would be like the cold email or maybe the cold DM. I've had a few conversations with incredibly successful people in the last like seven to ten days. And this subject has come up.

28:44 And when I've told them that I have never sent a cold email or DM or anything in my life. They thought it was the dumbest thing ever. And that there's this huge asymmetric opportunity. And so Ralph and we so we see a young Ralph Lauren was way smarter than I am.

28:59 And he reaches out one of the first people he reaches out to was actually the men's fashion editor at Playboy, which was, you know, one of the most if you wanted to f have somebody on the side, on your side as a young fashion designer, This is, you know, one of the few people that it'd be life changing to get on your side. So it says one of Ralph's earliest boosters. was Robert Green, who was the men's fashion editor at Playboy Magazine. Ralph called me and he was very young, says Green. He was this nervous little voice on the telephone. A voice so nervous that I immediately became

29:28 Sympathetic. I admire your directness, I told him, and you obviously should be seen. He wanted me to look at his neckties. I said, I'll tell you what I'll do. I'm on my way to something and I'll drop in. I don't want to spend a lot of time. So if you lay out your things, I will tell you right away whether I have any interest.

29:44 And he brings up the fact that he goes over and he's like, Ralph is doing something that nobody else is doing. This is so bizarre and gr in a great way. He's like, I went berserk. I said to myself, now you have to relax because you have something here that is very important. I was completely surprised. And this is the end result. Playboy would

30:00 become the first national magazine to feature Ralph's ties. Others noticed And slowly Ralph began to build a following among a very small but influential group of customers. Route finally got into Bloomingdales. And then once he's in, There's this line that's just fantastic.

30:16 I found it in the seven hundred page biography of Charles De Gaulle. That I read for episode two twenty four. And the Gall's talking about his absolute refusal to back down and to make sure that France remains a free country. even after it be taken over it was taken over by the Nazis. And then he's trying to help Churchill and and Roosevelt.

30:32 uh defeat them so he can get his country back. But he says intransigence is my only weapon. Intransigence is my only weapon. So I had to look up that word. means a refusal to change one's views. Or to agree about something. I think some of the best entrepreneurs have high levels of intransigence.

30:48 'Cause he this guy, first of all, he goes to Bloom Bloomy Dales, right? He's like wants to sell their ties. They're like, Okay, you know, it has to be has to be our house brand. He's like, Nope, I'm out. Then he finds another way in. Then they make an order. Then he's like, No, the prices aren't high enough. We have to build this ultra exclusive brand. The quality has to be really high.

31:05 His intransigence at the time where no one really knows who Ralph Laura m you know, a small amount of people do. know who he is. It's like he's still intransigent. Says Ralph insisted on quality. He also insisted on the prices, which I thought were too high. This is the people at Bloomingdale's. I told him that even Bloomingdale's in one of the most affluent neighborhoods in the city, so this is in Manhattan. Couldn't sell polo ties at fifteen dollars.

31:25 I was wrong. This was the start of a marriage between Ralph Lauren and Bloomingdales. That would last more than twenty years. And so this is still his first year of business. Doesn't have a lot of money.

31:36 And he's still turning away business. Ralph had turned away Wallocks, one of the fastest growing men's specialty store chains. I didn't want to sell to them, he said. I didn't think they were the right image for me. They didn't have the customers I wanted to sell to. It would kill the exclusivity. I was the consumer and I understood exclusivity. So when he's talking about is I was the consumer, he repeats this over and over again. You should be building products for yourself. He's like, I don't know what other people want, I know what I want. So I just make what I want and I assume there's other people that are gonna like what I Like as well if especially if I can sell the story to them and tell the reason why.

32:04 And this is a great Line here about the fact that You know, this guy's in the very beginning of his company's turning away money. And it says it was one thing to like Ralph Lauren. Understanding him was something else. So in the documentary Ralph says, listen, this sounds looking back, it sounds like a master plan.

32:18 It was not like a master plan. People like my ties and then they would naturally say, Hey, what else do you make? And Ralph starts making shirts. He starts making suits. Then he expands out to this entire lifestyle. Like d redecorate your entire house, your entire closet. He'll influence the kind of cars you buy, even if he's not the one making them.

32:35 And the reason I'm bringing this up to you is because This is when he decides he's gotta he's gotta switch business partners. So he's gonna leave that guy I told you earlier, just remember his name, Brower. He's we're about to leave Brower. We're about to link up with this guy named Norman Hilton. Eventually He's gonna tell Hilton that having a partner

32:51 was like having like being tortured or something like that. I'll I'll read the highlight to you in the future. So he's gonna leave Hilton later as well. But he has to link up with Hilton'cause Hilton's got the money needed to start. Uh

33:03 Uh creating things other than ties. And so Brower's saying, like, why didn't you fight this? Like, why'd you just let Ralph go? He says I let Ralph take the name for two reasons. First, it was his idea. Second. We didn't think we could move forward without him.

33:15 A lot of people later asked How we could let'em go. Today I wouldn't. But who knew what was going to happen back in nineteen sixty eight? And so then this speaks to Ralph's comments, like, you know, it sounds like a master plan, it wasn't a master plan.

33:27 Ralph Loren Tie Maker had now become Ralph Loren. menswear designer. So Hilton tries to get Ralph to set up shop where all the other designers are. And so I just had somebody send me um a quote. That was very interesting. I don't think I said it, but it was like their interpretation of something on on an old on old episode.

33:44 Talk about Charles De Gaulle and Henry Singleton. consciously avoided their peers. So they wouldn't mimic what their what their behavior was. I think there's actually a lot of wisdom embedded in that idea, and we see this with Ralph here. Hill didn't want Ralph to move to twelve ninety sixth Avenue.

33:58 where the other menswear companies had showrooms. The manufacturers crowded into one building because it made it easier For out of town buyers to shop the different lines. Everybody thought this was a good arrangement. Everybody that is except Ralph Lauren. the first thing a buyer did was walk into the lobby

34:13 and run his eye up and down a directory of hundreds of manufacturers. Ralph didn't want his company name on that directory. Polo stood for something special. Something unique. So this is important. The next uh let's see, decade and a half, maybe decade.

34:27 He is a manufacturer. Manufacturing is going to cause him to almost go Broke. And so as he expands out into ties, he has this idea, he's like, Hey, we're actually The only thing about we're doing this is the i the first dimension of this idea is like oh no, we're marketing a lifestyle. And it's a lifestyle based on Ralph Lauren himself.

34:43 Since Ralph dressed one way at work. One way at home, and one way on the weekends, he assumed the customers did too. This was the start of his lifestyle marketing. And so he realized he didn't want his clothes sold. the way everybody else's was. So like you walk in a department store now, right? And you'll have like these

34:58 individual brands. They almost it's like they have like these stores within a store. Th Ralph was the first menswear designer to do this. There's so many ideas in this book that seem so So like they're obvious to us now, or maybe like they're just uh the the like the experience we've had,'cause this has been like this since uh ever since I stepped inside of a department store. But there's so many times where Ralph was like the first one to do it. So one example I don't think I'll talk about on the podcast, which which blew my mind was that There was no such thing as like a menswear designer at the time. All the famous designers

35:25 Uh a lot of'em were were men, but they made Wim clothes for women. Women bought their clothes from individuals like Oscar de la Renta or whatever. Or uh Christian Dior? And men bought them from like brands like Brooks Brothers. And the only relationship you would have would be with a relationship with like your tailor.

35:41 But Ralph started just selling men's clothes and not He was like one of the first men's designers. And what was also interesting is that He operated in the opposite direction. So You're supposed to everybody before Ralph Lauren would start designing clothes for women.

35:54 And then if that was successful, they could move into designs for men. Ralph was the first to to start with men and then move into women and at the time people said, No, you can't do that because you're supposed to start with women first. He's like, Why? As this weird opportunity just hidden in plain sight, just because people are acting out of Routine or the way it o was always done. And so you see the same example here where he's the first people to go to like

36:13 No, I need my own store inside of Bloomingdale's. And so just because another men's designer hadn't done this yet, it didn't that didn't stop Ralph from pushing the issue. So he's gonna push this issue with this guy named Frank Simon, who works at Bloomingdales. Hey, I need a shop. Ralph told Frank. He was selling an image, a way of life, and he didn't have the money to advertise, which meant he could only tell his story through his own store.

36:32 Simon thought that this was a dumb idea. He wanted to group polo's clothes. In the inside the men's department. Finally Ralph said that if we didn't build him a store He'd go somewhere else, says Simon. That's Ralph.

36:43 He's a good Cool negotiator. And he's consistent. So this is what I mentioned earlier that if you know what you want, you gotta work your trying to work your way into a position To actually accomplish what you want.

36:53 And the way Ralph did this is he just consistently pushes. He's not like yelling. But he's perfectly fine if you tell him no once, twice, three times, he's just gonna be very consistent. And he in this in this case he just gives an ultimatum. He's like, Well, I I know I'm gonna do this and I'm I wanna do it with Bloomingdales. But one way or another I'm doing it with somebody. So it says he had the dream, but he wasn't big en big enough yet to do that himself.

37:13 It was the first time the men's department had given a designer his own boutique. So then we get to what was the most interesting part of the book for me,'cause it goes in great detail over a ton of pages. Just about the fact that he had he experienced rapid growth and because he's having to manufacture so many different pieces, he doesn't have the experience. He doesn't have any of the cost controls in in place. He doesn't have He he's about to hire like the first quote unquote finance guy.

37:36 He finds himself in a position where he's got an unbelievably popular brand. Sales going through the roof and literally no money. No credit and on the precipice of bankruptcy. And so he hires a finance guy, this guy named Michael Bernstein. And Michael is promised like ten percent of the company.

37:51 He's gonna be Ralph's partner. And from the very first day it's like, Oh wait, things from the outside it's like this guy's winning design awards. His ads are everywhere. People are lined up at Bloomingdales to buy stuff. And he gets to the office, he's like, Okay, this is kinda weird.

38:05 Uh unknown to Michael Bernstein, polos unsecured loans to the first national bank of Boston on the date of his arrival. Amounted to over three hundred thousand dollars. Walks in the office the first day. And he finds it's like oh we're up to our eyeballs in debt, no one's really paying attention to stuff. And

38:19 They're having all these manufacturing issues where they can't actually fulfill and actually create their product, which is huge uh which is obviously a a drastic mistake. On the date of his arrival amount of over three hundred thousand dollars. more than polo's earnings for the fiscal year that ended in nineteen seventy one And so Ralph's in his early thirties while all this is going on.

38:35 This is where he buys out his partner, but you see, I was like, Wait a minute, we're buying out your partner, but we don't have any money. What's happening here? How can you not have any money? Uh, he was tired of being shackled to Norman Hilton. Ralph no longer made his clothes in the Hilton factory. He didn't ask Hilton's advice and didn't use the Hilton name to do business with major department stores. The original fifty thousand dollars that Hilton put up. uh had long since been repaid, yet Hilton still owned half the business. So Ralph sends this new guy Bernstein

38:59 Like hey, figure out how much Like how we're gonna buy out. Hilton. And so he asked him at lunch. He's like, Okay, how much do you want for your s your polo stock? Uh seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars, Hilton responded. That's too much, said Bernstein.

39:10 Hilton shrugged. He thought seven hundred fifty thousand was a nominal price to pay Considering that he had put Ralph in business. And you're also negotiating with somebody that doesn't want to sell. So it says Uh the seller was a man who lacked incentive. I didn't want to go, said Hilton. I never wanted to leave Ralph. But he wanted me out.

39:25 I recognize that I own half the corporation, but I didn't own half of Ralph's brain. There was no law that he said he had to work for that company. It was his talent. His talent was the entire thing. I said to Ralph, I don't want to go. And he said, and these are his words.

39:39 It's torture being a partner to somebody you don't want to be a partner with. So Hilton eventually agrees. He actually sells for six hundred and thirty three thousand instead of the seven fifty that he first initially asked for. Hilton later used the money to buy himself a vacation home. On Sea Island, Georgia. This is the house Ralph built me, he would tell his guests, smiling.

39:58 It was a hollow joke. If Hilton had remained a partner in Polo, Today he could own thirty houses. On Sea Island. Ralph paid Hilton a hundred and fifty thousand in cash.

40:08 and signed notes for the remaining four hundred and eighty grand. Now here's the crazy part. The fact was Ralph's company coffers were so bare. That Ralph had to borrow

40:18 Андрей тозин і каш. That he needed. So he's in debt for the entire six hundred and eighty three thousand. And so this outside guy that's uh actually the president, I think, of one of or he's like the one that's in charge of the polo account from one of Ralph's creditors. Guy named David Goldberg. is going to do this like thorough investigation of the the the finances of Ralph Lawrence uh company.

40:39 And this is where they realize, Oh my God, they're almost insolvent. And so it says Polo had problems. They needed to establish better controls, cut overhead, and move Ralph Lauren out of manufacturing into licensing. And sounds so crazy to people that haven't experienced that that you can have so much growth when you're manufacturing phys. that that can actually bankrupt the company. This is very similar. If you read Phil Knight's uh fantastic bio autobiography, Shoe Dog, the early days of Nike were so that had so much growth and he refused to slow down that he uh constantly was on the edge.

41:06 Of going out of business, too. And so this is what it sounds like when that's happening. From a financial standpoint, 1973 started badly for Polo and rapidly got worse. Sales for January and February fell behind plan because key contractors refused to make and ship merchandise unless they were paid cash. His credit, essentially just contracts. And so then he has so his supplier is holding his merchandise hostage, but he needs that merchandise to make more money. It's this vicious cycle. Uh Polo's own factory mutinied.

41:31 The Andrew shirt company refused to release four hundred dozen shirts. Until its invoices were paid. Polo's board called a special meeting devoted to the commissions that Ralph received on the sale. Those commissions were in addition to Ralph's regular salary. Embarrassing as it was, Polo could not afford to pay Ralph any money.

41:49 Instead, he had to step up to the table. Stepping up to the table for Ralph. Met handing over his personal checkbook. He had a hundred thousand dollars in his account and he had to pledge it. To the company. Ralph began having trouble sleeping at night.

42:02 And so his controls were so non existent that even though th in one year they go from three point eight million in sales, right? to eight million. Ralph had thought they were making a profit. They actually had a loss of like forty five thousand dollars. And so the fact that his CFO, the guy that's supposed to be running this, was stunned by this Pro forma that is made by one of Ralph's creditors, this guy David Gold Dave Goldberg.

42:23 Um that actually cost uh Bernstein Ralph was gonna fire Bernstein, but the difficult is like they were like Childhood friends. They're Like they'd hang out like with couples, like this was

42:33 Like firing, you know, one of your best friends. I says what really stunned h uh what really stunned Ralph was Michael Bernstein's astonishment at the losses. This is not what Ralph wanted to hear. If Michael Bernstein did not know whether the company was making or losing money, why was Ralph paying him to be the company's CFO? This was more than an ordinary firing.

42:50 Michael Bernstein had be had been one of Ralph's closest friends. They socialize together. Their wives were friendly. They were partners. And what's crazy is while from the inside, right, no one knows all the like the the how close

43:04 Ralph is to bankruptcy, right? On the outside, he is still winning awards. Check this out. So one night it says Ralph won his second Cody award for menswear. So that's like one of the the most important Fashion design awards, right? He does that on a Thursday night, wins this ward.

43:21 For You know, best designer. The next day Friday. He could not meet his payroll.

43:28 Whoa. Near lunchtime, he said. I I've got to ho go home and change. I'm having lunch with Marvin Traub. Marvin Traub was then the president of Bloomingdales. The reason he was having lunch with Marvin was that he would he needed to ask Bloomy Nails to advance him money on fall merchandise. This is in June. This is very unusual.

43:45 It's like I need the advance on the stuff that's gonna happen, you know, five months from now. If Marvin says no, Ralph does not make payroll. Marvin said he would make an exception and advance Ralph the money he needed. Ralph made his payroll with the check Bloomingdales gave him. So then he's gotta find a way out of this vicious cycle. Like if his creditors cut off credit, then he has no merchandise to sell, he can't pay them back.

44:05 So says the company needed a handholder for the creditors because its books were a mess. There were no systems and no sophistication in terms of accounting procedures, credit procedures, returns. Even administration such as Fringe Benefits. Holidays, salary reviews, and sick days. The first day I walked into the offices, there was a lawsuit on my desk.

44:21 From Burlington Industries, a major peace goods supplier. They wanted money, money that Ralph Lauren did not have. Buying Norman Hilton's stock. Remember a few minutes ago I was just saying he didn't want to have a partners. was a catastrophe because it wiped out polo's net worth. There were the financial these were the financial realities of running a business that was nearly bankrupt.

44:40 The daily personal embarrassments were worse. People stopped Ralph in the street. In the showrooms and at lunch. What is wrong with your business, they'd ask. How many people have you laid off? Polo fashions had been so hot, so successful.

44:52 And Ralph had been so cocky. So full of himself. Now Ralph Lauren was getting hit, so it's talking about the the perception of people that, you know, did not like that he kind of skyrocketed, you know, rather quickly.

45:04 Now it's like good, he's getting what he deserves, right? Uh there was fear in the showroom, there was fear in the factories, there was fear in the design studio. Many of those closest to Ralph quit for better jobs. This I've seen a bunch of times. Like you may see th this is why it's it's weird where where if uh companies like, Oh, we're a family No, we're not family, we're a team. Because what's about to happen here. Is people first of all, he considered family, he had a fire.

45:25 Uh, including his brother, but his partner Bernstein, right? But also like some of his closest employees. This happen this happened to Jeff Bezos when he had that drop. I think his stock went from like a hundred and eighty one dollars down to like seven or something. If you read the everything store, it talks about like this mass exodus out of his company. People forget that'cause they see what Amazon is today, right? They didn't realize how close he came to losing everything and the fact that When that happens, the normal human reaction is for everybody to abandon you. Even people you thought would never abandon you and you thought were really close to you.

45:53 It just happens over and over again for us to think that it's not gonna happen to us. Like it god forbid, hopefully I like what Charlie Munger said like two weeks ago or last week maybe. Wins wisdom is prevention. Wisdom is prevention. I really like that line. It's like okay, if you're really smart, like you should avoid the problems, not just have to solve the problems when they pop up.

46:10 And so Hopefully we can avoid this fate, but if we weren't Yeah. gonna experience some kind of contraction, it's likely that the people that we thought would, you know, ride or dies, people that would stay there forever, are going to leave. It just h pops up in the the books too much. to not realize this is just something that's repeatable through human nature.

46:25 Uh fear many of those closest to Ralph quit for better jobs. Um, and so there's this guy Name Salary. I don't I don't he's I don't know how to pronounce his last name. But this one hurt really bad. To Ralph, each resignation was a personal rebuke. It was Sal's departure though that hurt most of all.

46:42 Sal left me when I was choking and he opened his own showroom, says Ralph. Then a year later Sal called my interior director uh interior decorator Tom and hired him. That killed me. I had always loved Sal. After all that, he pulled out and left me.

46:57 He didn't believe in me. And then he screwed me. I needed somebody to help me. Somebody to stay. It was a very frightening moment.

47:06 Ralph would walk into a Peace Goods showroom, so a supplier, right? Look over the line and write his order. Then before he could leave, a salesman would quietly but firmly explain That his credit wasn't any good. Ralph Lauren was a

47:19 Design award winner. But he had to pay cash. This is how Ralph learned. Polo fashions. was two companies.

47:27 There was the design business. the business that depended on his eye, his taste, his feelings, this is the side of the business he's running. Then there was the business side. Where nobody cared about his eye. Nobody cared about his taste.

47:38 or cared about his feelings. Only money counted. Not dreams. When I got to that paragraph, what popped out on me, I think it's episode two twenty seven. It's the essays of Warren Buffett. You can also find it in Warren Buffett's shareholder letters and Warren says when bills come due

47:54 Only cash is legal tender. Do not leave home without it. He's talking about the reason that Him and Charlie set on mountains. And mountains of cash. People constantly try to get them to chase.

48:05 uh a better return with the cash is like nope, we've seen this play out over and over again. When bills come due Only cash as legal tender, do not leave home without it. And he's talking about the fact that let me let me read the the the the second part of this paragraph'cause I actually think that was interesting. uh warren's writing says this is the reason for our conservatism. Which may impress some people as extreme.

48:23 It is that it's entirely predictable that people will occasionally panic. But not at all predictable when this will happen. Though practically all days are relatively uneventful. Tomorrow is always uncertain. That is why you always have to have mountains of cash, right, for your company to survive. And so his his point's like

48:39 Yeah, I U every day. almost every day we we experience are relatively uneventful, but then you have these one or two days that come along every so often. And everything changes. asset prices change and he says I felt n and he talks about this, I felt no special apprehension on December sixth, nineteen forty one, the day before

48:55 Pearl Harbor. Or September tenth. two thousand one. And if you can't predict what tomorrow will bring, you must be prepared for whatever it does. Again, how does he start that when c when bills come due? Only cash is legal legal tender.

49:07 Don't leave home without it. We see this Playing out in Ralph's life. You know, g luckily he survives this, now he's uh I think eighty three years old. But this is him in his thirties. You know if Ralph made a bad move here, we don't know who Ralph Lauren is.

49:19 And so he's realizing that side of the business They don't care about your eye, your taste, your feelings, any of that. Do you have the cash or not? And so luckily Dave Goldberg, one of his his creditors, comes in. It's a very simple plan. It's gonna be very similar to what Geffen told Calvin Klein. There's a there's a way to make money here and you guys are doing it the wrong way. It's amazing.

49:36 He's essentially in the same business, but this change of business model. Takes them from The precipice of bankruptcy to one of the richest self made men in America. That is wild and it does so within ten years. Dave Bull d Dave Goldberg insisted polo fashionist had to do four things to survive.

49:52 Uh they had they need to license the women's wear business, which was a cash drain. That's the first thing they have to do. Ralph had to invest more cap find more b uh capital to invest in the business. That's the second thing. Third. Polo needed to work out a deferral program on five hundred grand it owes this this other um company.

50:09 Which is the company that makes its suits. Or'cause they need those suits to sell, right? So that's the third thing. And finally, number four. Polo also needed to renegotiate the repayment terms. Of the nearly half a million dollars that owned Norman Hilton. Ralph did all of these things. And so in the next two years they they create this remarkable turnaround doing all these things.

50:26 tr transitioning from a manufacturing company to a licensing uh a licensing company. Watching their costs. Again. Gentlemen watch your costs. I think it's Andrew Carnegie that that said that.

50:36 The the importance of Paying attention to the expense side of your business where most people just focus on the the sales side. Which is crazy. is w the most common theme in the history of entrepreneurship. Uh, and we see that like Ralph wasn't doing that. Like, what are you talking about? We just eight million revenue. How the hell could we not be losing money? Because no one was watching the costs.

50:54 With its overhead reduced and its uh Other businesses, I'm I'm gonna skip over the brand names. uh license out, polo began to make money. Ralph Lauren could even buy good peace goods on credit again. This made me think of

51:07 I so wish. Sam Walton was still alive. I mean you can re I I read his Autobiography I think two times. I'll probably read it seven times. uh you know, throughout my life. In fact I just had dinner

51:18 with somebody that has dinner regularly. with Peter Teel. Um, and he said something that was very fascinating. that uh Peter had mentioned a dinner. you know, an idea that he found

51:30 Do the seventh reading of some book. And that just made me feel so much better'cause I'm like, Oh I like, I can't believe People like, oh, it's kinda unusual that you reread books. It's like why wouldn't you? Why like the brain is like this Amazing device to forget things. And not only that.

51:46 The words change because you change as a person. So in between I think it was like episode six, the first time I read St. Walden's biography to episode two hundred and thirty four, something like that. Like think about how much information I've consumed. Like I'm a completely different person. And so I just really wish Sam Walton was was alive. I wish I could talk to him. You know, reading his autobiography is just you know, the next best thing. But I just would be absolutely fascinating. to be able to like you know, have a conversation with that guy.

52:09 But when I get to this section, I thought about one of my favorite things that Sam said. Sam said a lot of smart things since autobiography. But he says like you can make a lot of different mistakes and still recover if you run an efficient operation. Or you can be brilliant and still go out of business if you're too inefficient. Ralph Lauren was brilliant. He's winning awards. He's creating new categories, he's increasing prices.

52:28 He is being absolutely brilliant. but he was too inefficient and he almost went out of business. What did Sam just tell us? You can make a lot of different mistakes and still recover if you run an efficient operation. Or you can be brilliant and still go out of business if you're too inefficient. And so Ralph talks about in the documentary, like how dark of the period this was.

52:44 But the greatest thing one of the I love what Jeff Bezos says, he's like Plan B should be to make plan A work. Uh yeah, the the idea behind that is the fact that if you have a plan B, if you have something to fall back on Lot of people Fall back on it.

52:55 For Ralph was like no, there is no falling back. It's this or nothing. So it's like there's no moment As difficult and painful as this was, is like I ever thought of quitting. And so this is crazy'cause he had a single minded purpose. This is A quote about Ralph.

53:08 From somebody that Ralph fired. The thing that set Ralph apart was his single mindedness of purpose. Everybody else moved from place to place, from trend to trend. He wasn't trendy. He stayed with it. It is the single most important thing about him. To this day.

53:23 There are people walking around saying Ralph Loren isn't that special. I could have done that. It is the weirdest thing. They couldn't be more wrong. Ralph is the most special guy in the apparel business and he said that

53:34 Ralph fired him. And so when Ralph finally finds a partner later on, this guy named Peter Strom, who I think they're still part might be still partners to stay, I'm not sure if Peter passed away or not. But they were part of us for a long time, if I if I remember correctly. And they're just talking about like the the condition of the business, the fact that

53:49 Uh, my friend Patrick from the Invest the Best Podcast told me about um this guy named Graham Duncan. And I started reading his essays. Um, and then he told me Patrick told me to listen to Graham Duncan's episode on the Tim Ferris podcast. It's called Talent is the best asset class. I'll leave a link in the show notes as well. Or you can just search on your podcast player. I love

54:10 That uh that conversation. I saved a bunch of clips'cause um I l I liked a lot of things that that Graham was saying. I just like this idea is talent is the best asset class. Ralph was an unusual talent that says this. The truth of the matter is

54:22 That the only great thing about polo Was Ralph. Everything else was terrible. And yet that's all you needed. A truly

54:30 unusual once in a generation talent. So this is really where Ralph as an entrepreneur really grows up. The company grows up. It's amazing. This this transition happens. It's like one hundred and eighty degree. uh difference in their financial situation happens in just two short years.

54:45 So he's learning how to edit the team. It says Ralph had learned that he had to run his business like a business. This means that he even had to essentially get rid of his own brother. And then they go all in on this idea. Well, if licening licensing is where the money is, let's go into that. says he was now on a roll. By the fall of nineteen seventy six, polo's licensees included Tiffany and Company. A fur maker, a shoemaker, a lingerie maker, a Japanese men clothing maker.

55:09 A scarf maker. Uh an eye grass frame maker. Polo's volume including sales from licensed products. was eighteen miljones. He was now learning what would be the most important lesson in the fashion business. It almost did not matter how much money a designer made or lost producing his own collections.

55:25 As long as he signed enough lucrative licensing deals. and then controlled the quality of the products made bearing his name or logo. So this is another fashion designer. uh that was doing us before So uh this guy named Bill Blast and then Pierre Cardin.

55:40 And they go over the numbers of just how different. Like all the money was in licensing. Uh, Bill Blast's licensing business, for example. Брат і адред мільйон долар. In naйin seві six the collections that he made himself. Did no more than twenty five million.

55:55 And then this is a punchline licensing would explain how the designers amass such large fortunes. So quickly. Ralph would show exactly how well he understood this when he signed Uh, what would be one of the most lucrative licensing deals. A deal that a decade later was still producing royalties.

56:10 Of more than five million a year. So I put five million a year into the like to adjust it for inflation in today's dollars. That's thirteen million a year. So let me just read that. Again in today's dollars. Uh so ten years from now

56:22 A deal that would still be producing this is just one single deal. He's got a ton of licensing agreements. So now you could see how he afforded the Gulf Stream and all the estates. A deal that a decade later was still producing royalties of more than thirteen million a year. Ralph Lauren designer would become Ralph Lauren perfume seller. And so the history of business is filled with these unbelievable deals that individuals and w in many cases two individuals come to mine.

56:46 they're able to work out for themselves. So I think of Coco Chanel. I think of Michael Jordan. Coco Chanel. I covered this on episode number one ninety nine. She eventually gets I think two percent of all gross sales worldwide.

56:58 For all the Coco Chanel perfumes, Chanel number five being one of the most commercially successful products of all time. Th this made her r reportedly the the richest woman alive when when this deal was going on, uh towards sh I forgot she was. But she was making uh the equivalent of uh so it's twenty five million dollars a year back then.

57:17 Which Today's dollars, it'd be like somebody paying you three hundred million dollars a year. And her contract stipulated that the company had to pay for every single one of her living expenses. So she's got no bills.

57:28 And she's making three hundred million dollars a year. And then Michael Jordan's deal that he has with Nike. was also in the news, especially in the last like year or two because Jordan Brand is still growing so much. And I think he gets five percent. I think it was yeah, five percent.

57:41 On three billion dollars of sales, I think a year or two ago, he was making a hundred and fifty million a year. uh just from from that deal. And you know, he's been retired for over twenty years. And so Ralph's royalty is the year this book came out, which is you know, thirty five, around thirty five years ago. Uh, it says Ralph's royalties.

57:59 Uh, that year were sixteen million dollars in today's dollars. Sixteen million dollars, despite the fact that Ralph never invested a cent of his own money in the fragrance business. And then towards the end of the book the author goes into What has all this success done? For Ralph. Like why is he doing what he's doing?

58:16 And what has it done to him? And another way to think about this is like why is Ralph doing What Ralph is doing. What does it mean that somebody from the Bronx who starts out selling fat ties Can build a fashion empire.

58:28 That stretches from New York to Paris to Tokyo. One would think that after all the awards Ralph has won and all the monies he's earned He'd be satisfied. Ralph Is not satisfied.

58:40 He's anxious. And sometimes insecure. So what does he want? The answer is not more money. If Ralph wanted to cash in fast, he could triple his licensees overnight.

58:50 And boost his income without taking any financial risk. And he has not done this. Ralph hasn't expanded faster because growth still makes him uneasy. Some businessmen dream of building big, powerful businesses. Not Ralph.

59:02 He wanted money. He wanted luxury. He wanted recognition. But he never aspired to manage a billion dollar company. As meticulous

59:12 As he is about his work. Ralph has never spent hours. Plotting his next career move. And then he goes into something that will be surprising to people from the outside, but you and I have talked about a number of times. So much so that it should be expected at this point.

59:25 This success, he says. I don't want to tell you it's lonely. But it isn't completely fulfilling. It isn't the need for celebrity that pushes them forward. No matter how much attention Ralph receives.

59:36 It'll never be enough. And he probably knows this. What motivates him Is fear. For nearly twenty years, Ralph Lauren

59:44 has been at the center stage in his industry. And he intends to stay there. He has fought hard to get to the top. He did not inherit money. He did not graduate from college.

59:55 The stature and wealth Ralph has accumulated he earned. He understands better than anybody else. He knows Not only how hard it is to achieve success, but But even more demanding

1:00:07 How hard it is to maintain it. But is he gonna slow down? Not likely. As he said, my soul. is in what I do.

1:00:15 It's Ralph Lauren's name on the door. On the ads. In the store. And he intends to keep it there. And if nobody ever gives him a crown

1:00:25 How? He'll design his own. And that is where I'll leave it for the full story. Highly recommend buying the book. If you buy the book using the link that's in the show notes in your podcast player. You'll be supporting the podcast at the same time. You can also go to founderspodcast.com. And if you buy books through there.

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1:01:13 And eighty eight books down. One thousand ago. And I'll talk to you again soon.

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